How to Introduce Cats: The Stress-Free Staged Protocol

Bringing a new cat home is thrilling. The sudden hiss from your resident cat? That’s terrifying. Most “slow introductions” fail because they rush the one thing cats need most: time to build a shared scent identity before they ever lay eyes on each other.

This guide is not a gentle suggestion. It is a scientifically-backed, staged protocol designed to prevent the #1 cause of long-term multi-cat conflict: a botched introduction. By working with feline nature—not against it—you can build a foundation for peaceful coexistence, not a truce held together by tension.

Why Rushed Introductions Cause Years of Conflict

Cats are territorial. Their world is defined by scent. When you plop a new, unfamiliar-smelling cat into the middle of an established territory, you aren’t making a friend. You’re issuing a territorial invasion alert.

The resident cat feels threatened. The new cat is terrified. The resulting defensive aggression, hiding, and litter box issues aren’t “adjustment problems”—they are trauma responses. This trauma can wire their relationship for conflict permanently. Our protocol prevents this by making the introduction predictable, positive, and scent-first.

The Pre-Arrival Setup: Your “Peace Basecamp”

Before the new cat arrives, you must prepare the battlefield for peace.

1. Create a Basecamp Room: Choose a separate room (a bedroom, office) for the new cat. Equip it with everything: litter box, water, food, scratching post, bed, and hiding spots. This is their safe territory.

2. Conduct a Resource Audit: For the resident cat(s), ensure you can scale up. The rule is N+1: Have one more litter box, feeding station, and major sleeping perch than the total number of cats will be. This prevents instant resource competition.

3. Gather Your Tools: You will need:

   • Two white cotton socks or small hand towels (for scent swapping).

   • High-value treats (chicken, tuna, Churu).

   • A baby gate or screen door for later phases.

   • Patience. Do not skip steps.

The 4-Phase Staged Introduction Protocol

Phase 1: Scent Introduction (Days 1-4) – NO SIGHT

The cats must not see each other. The goal is to make each cat’s scent a neutral, then positive, part of the other’s environment.

• Day 1-2: Scent Swapping. Gently rub the new cat with one sock, focusing on cheeks and chin (where scent glands are). Place this sock under the resident cat’s food bowl. Do the reverse with the other sock. Feed them at the same time, on opposite sides of the basecamp door. They will associate the foreign scent with the pleasure of eating.

• Day 3-4: Site Swapping. Confine the resident cat in another room and let the new cat explore the main house for 20-30 minutes. Then, switch. This allows investigation without confrontation, building a “scent map” of the shared territory.

Progression Cue: Move to Phase 2 only when both cats are calm, eating readily, and showing no signs of stress (hissing, growling, refusing food) during scent-swap feedings.

Phase 2: Controlled Visual Access (Days 5-10+) – The Gate Phase

Now you add sight, with a physical barrier ensuring safety.

• Set up a baby gate, screen door, or door cracked 2 inches with a stopper.

• Conduct short, positive sessions (5-10 minutes, 2-3 times a day).

• During each session, feed both cats high-value treats or their meals. If they look at each other, then look away and eat, that’s success. If they stare, hiss, or growl, increase the distance (move bowls farther back) or end the session.

• Gradually decrease the distance over successful sessions.

Progression Cue: Move to Phase 3 only when both cats can eat calmly within 6 feet of the barrier, ignoring each other or offering slow, calm blinks.

Phase 3: Supervised Co-Mingling (Days 11+)

This is the first physical access. Escape routes are non-negotiable.

• Remove the barrier with both cats in the room. Have interactive toys (like a wand) ready to distract and create positive shared play.

• Keep sessions very short (5 minutes). End on a positive note with treats.

• Watch body language closely. Playful bows and loose movements are good. Stalking, stiff tails, and fixed stares are not. If you see the latter, calmly separate and return to Phase 2 for another day.

• Over a week, gradually increase the duration of these sessions.

Phase 4: Full Integration & Ongoing Peacekeeping

When supervised sessions are consistently calm for a week, you can allow unsupervised time. However, the work isn’t over.

• Maintain N+1 Resources: Never go back to the bare minimum.

• Provide Vertical Space: Cat trees and shelves give cats escape routes and confidence.

• Use Positive Reinforcement: Randomly give treats when you see them resting peacefully in the same room.

• Monitor for Micro-Aggression: Blocking access to hallways or litter boxes is a sign of simmering tension. If this occurs, reinstate more structured, separated time.

Troubleshooting: What If It Goes Wrong?

• Hissing at the Gate? Increase distance. Go back to more scent swapping. You moved too fast.

• One Cat Hiding and Not Eating? Stress is too high. Return to Phase 1 (full separation) for 48 hours to reset.

• A Fight Breaks Out? Safely separate immediately. Go back to Phase 1 and treat this as a reintroduction after a fight, which may take weeks. The protocol is the same, but patience is thicker.

The Foundation of a Peaceful Multi-Cat Home

A successful introduction isn’t an event—it’s the first chapter in managing a multi-cat system. The skills you learn here—reading body language, managing scent, controlling the environment—are the same skills you’ll use to manage any future conflict.

Ready to dive deeper? Explore our Introducing & Integrating Cats Hub for guides on reintroducing after a fight, introducing kittens to seniors, and fixing common mistakes.

Return to the MultCatBehaviour.com Homepage for more systems-based guides to a peaceful multi-cat home.